So as MTBrs, we’re undoubtedly going to run across times
when we need to glue something together… could be our favorite pair of MTB
shoes to get a few extra miles out of before replacing, could be a slice in a
tire sidewall, could be our frame that we got welded and are now stranded out
in some remote place (Looking at you
Schilling).
What I’ve noticed as I’ve talked with many of you reading
this, is that you choose a substance that may not really be the best thing…I
mean lets face it, we have ready access to stuff like JB Weld, Shoe Goo, Super
Glue, lots of 2 part epoxies, silicone, etc…But, they are all made for VERY
different purposes. So this little blog
write-up is to hopefully add some logic based on my experience but also my
mechanical engineering know-how from working with some of these things in my
past life.
Shoe goo
Shoe goo is amazing stuff, rubber in a tube that gets you
really high (note: use in a well ventilated space) but gets mistakenly used as
a bonding agent. It is NOT. I would highly discourage using the stuff to
bond two things together since that is NOT what it was designed to do. It really doesn’t have great bond strength. It’s basically a wear surface to replace worn
off parts of your shoe. Sticks great to
rubber, but not so much to other highly flexible parts of your shoe (like the uppers). I have applied this to the underside of my
mtb shoes WHEN THEY ARE NEW to lengthen the HAB life of them. Below is a pic of two of my pairs, both of
which are at least 3 years old, the Shimano’s having been HAB’d up Mingus 2x
and been through the AZT300. Obviously,
you have to clean the surfaces to which you apply it and it will tend to flow
so you can’t lay it on too thick. But, the
stuff is great when used for what it is intended.
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Great for parties and making your shoes last longer |
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I put on Shoe Goo on these SIDI's when they were almost new and have not worn through the toe yet....still going strong. I'm sure the socket head cap screws used as toe spikes helped too. |
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Another view of the SIDI's... note that that it doesn't stick to the leather very well due to the flexing |
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These are those Shimano M089's that have been to hell and back..again, I put the stuff on early in their life...well before the toe area got too worn down. |
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Here again, note how the shoe goo does not stick to the uppers very well. |
Superglue
Superglue has a ton of uses for MTBing….keeping skin stuck
together, gluing your buddies ass to the toilet seat, etc… lol…Superglue is obviously a GLUE(duh)…a
bonding agent (Cyanoacrylate). They work
when the stuff you are bonding is fairly rigid AND the bond line is THIN. They don’t fill gaps very well. Below you’ll see a pic of a pair of my
somewhat new Shimano’s that have an inherent design flaw where the sole next to
the cleat delaminates. This happened the
same way in the pair I discussed earlier that has been through tons of HAB. The solution (which works EXTREMELY well) is
to use some superglue (the cheap stuff from Harbor Frieght), let it wick into
the joint, but then clamp it with some spring clamps to keep the bond line
tight. If you were to try and fix these
with shoe goo or some other flexible adhesive, you would probably have
issues. Where superglue falls down is
when the surfaces flex a lot, ie, tire sidewall slices. However, some manufacturers have formulated
more robust cyanoacrylates (gorilla glue) that can flex. Personally, I have not tried these. Hutchinson has a tubeless tire patch kit
(that they are quite proud of) that has a specially formulated superglue for
bonding rubber…
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I'm a fan of the cheap stuff at Harbor Freight...used correctly, it works great |
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Note the slightly darker area right of the cleat...that's the superglue where I bonded down that sole ridge. |
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Using a spring clamp to keep it tight |
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This shoe was glued EXACTLY like above very early in its life...it never failed after bonding it with cheap a$$ Harbor Freight Super Glue |
2-Part Expoxies
There are of course a ton of these ranging from quick cure
ones to not so quick. Things like JB
Weld are 2-part epoxies. Typically these
cure very rigid but also have great bond strength with metals, plastics and
carbon (stuff we find on bikes). Below
is are a couple of pics where I used it to repair a set of carbon bar ends that
after multiple crashes, had worn through the carbon. They are definitely not made for flexible
materials. I did end up fixing a set of
saddle rails with it, but in the end did not use it since I had a
replacement. I’m pretty confident it
would have worked fine.
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My cheap Chinertown carbon bar end that started to crack from too many diggers |
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5 bucks worth of 5 min epoxy...works great...get it at HD. |
Silicone
Silicone actually has more uses than just to seal bathtubs
and make boobs bigger…I have had great luck using it to repair cut tires. For example, we all have cut a sidewall at
some point and later get it home and patch the inside. Sometimes, the cut is barely through the
sidewall or even the patch we use might be “just” big enough. I will take pure silicone, and smear it on the
inside of the tire over and beyond the patch or over the cut. It adheres quite well to the inside of tires and
when it sets up, will not extrude itself through the cut or puncture in the tire. Obviously, it’s not a very robust wear
material so if you put it on the outside of the tire, it won’t last too
long.
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No, not this kind of silcone ya bunch of perverts |
So, there you have it…a quick brain dump on glues and
such. I’m positive I don’t know
everything about this, and you all have info to add. But, hopefully this helps a few folks buy the
right spooge for their need.
Wow! :)
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